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"Richelieu" embroidery: aristocratic origins and modern incarnation in fashion trends

"Richelieu" embroidery: aristocratic origins and modern incarnation in fashion trends

During the Renaissance, due to its beauty, this embroidery quickly won the hearts of all European nobility. "Richelieu" lace was highly valued and was the main technique in the manufacture of luxurious collars, frills, cuffs, gloves and handkerchiefs. Embroidery was a privilege of the nobility and decorated table and bed linen. As well as numerous interior items, apartments and palaces of wealthy people.

What is "Richelieu" embroidery?

"Richelieu" is a type of openwork embroidery in which the main elements of the pattern are sewn with smooth stitch (by hand or on a sewing machine), and the gaps between them are cut out, creating lace. In this case, individual elements of the pattern can be connected by jumpers or braids, which makes beautiful lace.

Modern openwork embroidery is divided into two types - with and without borders, and is done by hand or on a typewriter.
If the inside of the slots is large, it is filled and connected with columns - jumpers, which are called bridges.
A typical feature of "Richelieu" is the braids, which bridge the cut-out areas and give the embroidery stability, connecting its elements.
The fords can be simple or branched, with knots and loops, the cross-section of the ford is formed by "spiders".
In addition to the above, to create a beautiful pattern in the "Richelieu" technique, a smooth surface with a flooring is used, decorated with seams (tambour, cross-shaped...) and cut out grids.

Openwork embroidery usually uses plant motifs: very often elegant flower petals and other plant ornaments, for example, grapes or ivy, are depicted. Zoomorphic drawings are very rarely used, mainly birds, which are inscribed in the image of a garden.

It is very important to perform embroidery accurately and correctly. But it is no less important to accurately cut off the excess fabric in the areas under the fords. If earlier "Richelieu" was performed only on thin fabrics, now this technique is used on any materials, including leather.


A little history…

The history of Richelieu embroidery dates back several centuries. It is believed that this embroidery technique originated in the 14th century during the Renaissance in Italy, during the reign of the famous Medici dynasty. However, the first mention of it is found in the chronicles of the 12th century, when this embroidery was created by nuns and kept secret from the general public. In those days, this embroidery was used for the clothing of clergy and on fabrics for saints.
This type of needlework was an exclusively aristocratic occupation due to the high prices of tools and fabrics. "Richelieu" was popular among court ladies: this embroidery decorated their dresses, furniture, bed linen, and handkerchiefs.

There are several versions of the origin of the name of the embroidery. According to the first version, the outstanding statesman, the first minister at the court of the French king Louis XIII, Cardinal Richelieu was a great lover of Italian embroidery and often wore clothes decorated with this openwork lace. There is an opinion that he even liked to sit behind this needlework, and even achieved success in this business.
According to another version, Cardinal Richelieu was a patriot of France, and therefore contributed to the development of his country. He imposed high duties on many goods imported into France, including lace products.
He also invited the best lacemakers from Italy, created all the conditions for them to live in the country, so that they could teach the art of embroidery to French women, who themselves were good lacemakers, because the weaving and embroidery of lace products had been passed down from one country to another for a long time.

Having become acquainted with Italian craftsmanship, French lacemakers gradually brought their own flavor and originality to the execution of "Richelieu" products. And soon France became a leader in the production of lace and openwork embroidery. Whatever one may say, it follows only that Cardinal Richelieu was involved in the embroidery.
Many women, and some men (even the cardinal himself), spent their time embroidering.
Nobles and courtiers spent their leisure time doing needlework. The fashion for embroidered and lace collars, cuffs, frills, gloves, handkerchiefs, table and bed linen, as well as numerous interior items stimulated the opening of women's schools and workshops throughout Europe.


Modern life of the "Richelieu"...

And in the 21st century, lace decoration looks elegant and modern. Today, embroidery in the Richelieu technique is experiencing another renaissance, decorating dresses by famous designers. An example of the integration of this embroidery into high fashion is one of the collections of the American fashion designer Oscar de la Renta.
Almost all the outfits created by the famous designer contain elements of this embroidery, which allows things to look both luxurious and traditional.

This way of decorating clothes reminds us of medieval times, the costumes of court nobility. Therefore, for those who want to give their image a bit of aristocracy, “Richelieu” will be an excellent option.

The beauty of the pattern brought "Richelieu" world fame and recognition of fashionistas for many centuries, and with the help of this technique you can decorate not only clothing items, but also the interior. Bed linen and table linen made on white linen look very elegant: tablecloths, runners, napkins.
Thanks to this, openwork embroidery "Richelieu" still remains a fashionable trend in country style, folk style.

"Richelieu" is an openwork and exquisite embroidery that can make any product unique and exclusive!
Our store also offers embroidered shirts and dresses embroidered in the "Richelieu" embroidery technique.

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