Once upon a time, each region (not to be confused with the modern division into regions) had its own peculiarities of wedding attire for both the bride and groom. This is now an attribute of the newlyweds: white on her, black or gray on him, several towels (for the rags and, if the newlyweds so wish, for the wedding), and one or two other elements of a "traditional wedding."
But what was the wedding attire of Ukrainian young people at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries? For illustration, postcard drawings from the series "Ukrainian Wedding Attire" by artist Zinaida Vasina were used.
Western Volyn
Young people's attire. Volodymyr-Volynskyi district of Volyn province (Volodymyr-Volynskyi district of Volyn region)
The bride's outfit: first, she wore a dodilnaya shirt with a turn-down collar, the sleeves of which were decorated with a woven pattern, and the hem was embroidered with lace. Then she wore a litnik (a half-woolen skirt with longitudinal multi-colored stripes), which was trimmed with a plain trim at the bottom. A zapaska was worn over the litnik (it had to have a pattern of horizontal stripes). A corset (a fitted sleeveless shirt with serrated cutouts sewn on the waistline) was worn over the shirt, which was decorated with embroidery and braid. On her feet, the bride wore colored onuchi and lychaki with hemp or flax laces (voloki). Her head was decorated with a wreath of artificial flowers made of paper, wool, and feathers, and ribbons were tied under the braid, which were to fall down the back.
The groom's attire: a wedding shirt with a richly embroidered sleeve, a stand-up collar and cuffs. The shirt was worn for graduation over narrow, colorful trousers. On his feet, the young man wore sandals (they had to be from an old embroidered shirt) and sandals with tassels. A wedding wreath was attached to the shirt. The groom's waist was wrapped in a wide woven belt.
Eastern Polissya
Young people's attire. Horodnyanskyi district of Chernihiv province (Snovskyi district of Chernihiv region)
The bride's outfit: a gray homespun shirt, which was trimmed with black velvet, colored ribbon and machine stitching on the hem, neck and cuffs. The skirt was to be red, and an apron decorated with lace and embroidery was worn over it. On her feet were cobbler's boots. The girl was girded with a woven wedding towel. Her head was framed with flowers, and colored ribbons fell from under her hair, which was gathered in a "basket".
The groom's attire: a shirt with embroidery on the stand-up collar, bosom, and cuffs. Blue wide trousers, girded with a red woven belt. A white retinue trimmed with black velvet was worn over the top. A red ribbon was attached to the groom's chest, and a wedding wreath was attached to his straw hat.
Eastern Polissya
Young people's attire. Novgorod-Siverskyi district of Chernihiv province (Novgorod-Siverskyi district of Chernihiv region)
The bride's attire: an embroidered wedding shirt, over which a skirt with a bib was worn. On top was an embroidered silk apron. The girl was girded with a woven wedding towel. Her head was decorated with a wedding wreath of woolen pompoms. The girl held a handkerchief in her hands.
The groom's attire: a shirt with an embroidered stand-up collar and bosom. Then he wore a vest and a chumarka made of cut fabric. The trousers were girded with a woven belt. On the smushkov hat was a red wedding ribbon.
Bukovina
Young people's attire. Kitsmanskyi county of Bukovina (Kitsmanskyi district of Chernivtsi region)
The bride's attire: a dodylna shirt with richly embroidered sleeves (the embroidery color was mostly black and burgundy). The waist was wrapped in a photo with horizontal wide purple and narrow white stripes. On both sides (symmetrically) to the belt were attached floral wedding scarves with tassels. On top was a tsurkanka (a sleeveless dress made of bleached sheepskin trimmed with ferret fur, appliqués from sapyan, cloth, laces made of wool and leather, embroidery and colored wool). The bride's neck was weighed down by a breastplate made of coins. A karabulya was worn on her head, to which codinki (colored ribbons) were attached at the back.
The groom's attire: a long white shirt and white trousers. A wide woven belt girded the waist. A manta (a robe-like, straight-backed, bisexual garment with wide sleeves) was worn on top. A wedding shawl (shirinka) was attached to the manta on the left side. On his head, the young man wore a straw hat with wide brims, decorated with shakers and knockers. On his feet - boots with high tops.
Transcarpathia
Clothing of the young. Verkhovyn Rusyns. Volivska Okrug of Transcarpathia (Mizhhirya District of Transcarpathia Region)
The bride's outfit: a wedding shirt, which consisted of a shoulder piece and a white shirt (the shirt had a different from traditional tailoring and was characteristic only for the Verkhovyna people), which was decorated with a lining and teeth-linings. The halter was gathered into small folds (drawn), it was decorated along the contour with braid (lace). A camisole was worn over the shirt, on which pockets-frogs were sewn. A gunya (a straight-backed outerwear with sleeves) was worn over it. The bride's unbraided hair was covered with a frock made of thin white linen, over which a wreath (a wedding periwinkle wreath) with oat flakes, braids (artificial flowers) and feathers was worn.
The groom's attire: a wedding shirt (given by the bride) with lush embroidery on the collar, chest, and cuffs. White linen trousers. A pelehata gunya was worn over the top. A felt hat and a periwinkle wedding wreath were worn on the head. A bow (a red woolen or silk ribbon) was tied on the groom's left hand, which was supposed to neutralize love spells.
Northern Poltava region
Young people's attire. Myrhorod district of Poltava province (Myrhorod district of Poltava region)
The bride's attire: a white linen shirt embroidered with white (for these embroideries, piercing, cutting and netting were characteristic). A plakhta and a zapaska were worn over the shirt. A towel embroidered with garus was girded around the waist. A kersetka was worn over the shirt (wealthy Ukrainian women also wore a fur coat). A wedding scarf with horns and a wreath adorned the head. A necklace, corals and ducats were worn around the neck.
The groom's attire: an embroidered shirt, over it a white suit made of homespun linen, trimmed with velvet. The collar of the shirt was tied with a red wedding ribbon. Blue wide trousers and boots. On his head was a straw hat decorated with a wedding wreath and ribbon.
Central Polissya
Clothing of the young. Kiev polishchuks. Chornobyl district of Kiev province (Chornobyl district of Kiev region)
The bride's outfit: a white shirt with an embroidered stand-up collar. A vest and apron were worn over it. A white retinue was worn on top, the hem and sleeves of which were trimmed with colored woolen lace. Onuchi and lychaki were worn on her feet. Her head was tied with a wedding ribbon, over which a wedding periwinkle wreath with ribbons was worn. The bride held a wedding handkerchief in her hands.
The groom's attire: a white shirt, a kilt, girded with a leather belt. Gray linen trousers were to be tucked into rags. Sandals were worn on his feet. A wedding flower made of 3 periwinkle leaves was pinned to his chest. A cloth hat with a colored woolen cord with tassels on the horns covered his head (so that the girls wouldn't cling to it).
Slobozhanshchyna
Young people's attire. Starobilskyi district of Kharkiv province (Starobilskyi district of Luhansk region)
The bride's outfit: a wedding shirt decorated with lace. A voluminous skirt (silk chintz or wool) was worn over the shirt. The skirt was covered in front with an apron, which was decorated with fringe, lace patches, and toothed ribbons. A skirt was worn on top, which was decorated with garish laces, edging, and ribbons. A silk ribbon was tied to the bride's head, on which a wedding wreath of artificial flowers was placed, into which a peacock feather was inserted. The bride was girded with a wedding towel. Strings of beads, amber, and coral were worn around her neck. Colorful sapian boots were worn on her feet.
The groom's attire: a wedding shirt, embroidered by the bride. A sleeveless shirt was worn over it. The trousers were made of Circassian or Swedish fabric. A chumarka (a light festive retinue) was thrown over the shoulders, which was decorated with metal buttons and embroidery with multi-colored silk. A visor with a flower was worn on the head, which was sewn by the bride's sister.
Southern Ukraine
Young people's attire. Kherson County, Kherson Province (Belozersky District, Kherson Region)
The bride's outfit: a shirt with a yoke, which was decorated with floral ornaments. A plakhta and a zapaska were worn over it. The bride was girded with a wide woven belt. Her hair was arranged in a crown on her head, and a tall wedding wreath with ribbons was worn on top. A wedding towel was knitted on the girl's left hand.
The groom's attire: a shirt with a floral ornament, over which a vest and a black chumarka were worn. Wide trousers were girded with a woven red belt and tucked into boots with high tops. A wedding towel was tied to the groom's hand (right), and wedding ribbons were tied to his chest and near his collar.
Western Polissya
Clothing of the young. Volyn Polishchuk. Rivne County, Volyn Province (Dubrovytsky District, Volyn Region)
The bride's outfit: a wedding shirt made of a veil. A white veil apron was worn over the shirt. A wedding flower made of 3 periwinkle shoots was attached to the left side of the shirt, which was tied with a white thread. White slippers and sandals were worn on her feet, which were fastened with laces. The bride's head was covered with a veil, on which a periwinkle wreath was placed. In her hands, the girl held a wedding bouquet with gifts.
The groom's attire: a shirt made of twill cloth, given by the bride. The shirt was worn for graduation over narrow trousers (nechesiv). The young man was girded with a striped fringe with a large number of mohair (small pompoms). A wedding flower was attached to the shirt on the left. Shoes were linen sandals and wicker shoes.
Pokuttya Kolomyyske
Young people's attire. Kolomyia County, Galicia (Kolomyia District, Ivano-Frankivsk Region)
The bride's attire: a dodylna shirt, finely embroidered along the hem. Next, two narrow double-layered zapaski were worn. Colorful thorn scarves with tassels were tied over the previous one. A keptar and a guglya (a bag-like cloak-cape) were worn over the shirt. Wedding scarves were draped over it, which were held in place by a ratukh (a long ritual scarf). Kapchuri (socks made of multi-colored wool) and postolas with their noses turned up were worn on the feet. The neck was decorated with a silyanka, a gerdan, a zgarda, and various necklaces. A wedding dress, a braid, was worn on the head, each element of which had its own ritual meaning.
The groom's attire: a linen shirt for graduation. The trousers were to be made of red homespun cloth. The waist was girded with a wide belt with buckles and tassels. A cap was worn on top. On his feet were sandals. On his head was a felt hat with wide brims, decorated with multi-colored laces, feathers, and pompoms.
Western Polissya
Young people's attire. Pinchuks. Pinsk district of Minsk province (Lyubeshiv district of Volyn region)
The bride's outfit: a woven shirt with a turn-down collar and a patched bosom, the sleeves of which were completely woven with red and black embroidery. A skirt and apron were worn over the shirt. Several strings of beads were worn around the neck. On her feet, she wore slippers made from an old shirt and slippers. A veil with a pattern on the ends was placed on her head, and on top of it, a wedding crown in the form of a high hoop that widened upwards and was trimmed with colored ribbons. The crown was worn tilted to the right side, and bunches of colorful feathers were attached to the ends.
The groom's attire: a white linen shirt for graduation (embroidered and given by the bride) and narrow trousers made of homemade linen. The young man was girded with a woven woolen belt. On his feet were sandals and sandals with tassels. On his head was a straw hat, to which a wedding wreath and a flower made of ribbon were attached.
Southern Kyiv region
Young people's attire. Chyhyrynskyi district of Kyiv province (Chyhyrynskyi district of Cherkasy region)
The bride's outfit: a shirt with red embroidery. Then a woven skirt was put on, and over it a red cloth zapaska. The bride was girded with an embroidered towel. A green cloth skirt with red woolen tails along the hem was put on over the shirt. The bride wore red sapyanki. A wedding wreath was put on her head.
The groom's attire: a shirt embroidered by the bride with a clasp (a red silk ribbon or a woolen cord). The trousers had to be made of cut fabric. A wedding scarf was tucked under the belt. A retinue or chumarka was worn on top. On his feet were welted boots. The head was covered by a tall, cylindrical gray felt hat, to which the bridesmaid sewed a wedding wreath of periwinkle, cornflowers and 3 ears of rye.
Eastern Podillia
Young people's attire. Kamianets-Podilskyi district of Podilskyi province (Kamanets-Podilskyi district of Khmelnytskyi region)
The bride's attire: a special wedding shirt with embroidered ornaments (mostly black), over which a gorbatka was worn. The girl was girded with a woven border of red wool. On top, a traditional retinue was worn, decorated with colored laces, cloth and braid. The neck and chest were decorated with numerous rows of beads and corals. A cheltsa and a wreath of periwinkle leaves and artificial flowers were worn on the head.
The groom's attire: a shirt embroidered by the bride. Pants made of homemade linen. A traditional retinue with traditional decorations was worn on top. A wedding silk scarf was tied around the groom's neck. A hat with a wedding wreath was worn on his head.
Western Podillia
Young people's attire Husyatyn county of Galicia (Husyatyn district of Ternopil region)
The bride's attire: a fitted shirt with traditional embroidery on the sleeves, collar, chest and hem. A shawl with a folded right corner covered the waist. A velvet cap embroidered with silk flowers, colored beads and small artificial flowers was worn on the head, these flowers were gathered in a bouquet on the back of the head, from which silk ribbons fell onto the shoulders. Curls of dyed feathers were woven into the braids near the ears. A wreath of gilded periwinkle leaves was placed on the forehead over the cap. A glass necklace was worn around the neck.
The groom's attire: a long wedding shirt for graduation, which was girded with a woven belt. The trousers were made of homespun linen. A retinue was thrown over his shoulders. On his head was a woven visor, which was decorated with rooster feathers.
Pokuttya Horodenkivske
Young people's attire. Horodenkivskyi county, Galicia (Horodenkivskyi district, Ivano-Frankivsk region)
The bride's outfit: a fitted shirt with richly colored embroidery. A top and a woven zapaska were worn over it. The girl was girded with a wide sash, the ends of which descended in front over the zapaska. A strap (a narrow woven belt) was tied to the sash. The neck and chest were decorated with coral beads and beads. Festive sapyan boots were worn on her feet (this was a gift from the groom). The head was decorated with a crown braided with periwinkle leaves, tassels, gerdans, and colored feathers. Bindas, garus and silk laces were attached to the crown at the back.
The groom's attire: a long shirt with wide sleeves, belted with a hem. A dzhobanka (woven bag) was worn over the shirt. Shoes were boots with high tops. The headdress, a visor, was decorated with braids, gerdans, and volochka laces. A lush bunch of feathers clung to the visor on the left.
Southern Poltava region
Young people's attire. Kobelyatskyi district of Poltava province (Kobelyatskyi district of Poltava region)
The bride's attire: a loose shirt, embroidered on the sleeves and along the hem. She wore a sleeveless dress made of colored chintz, a voluminous skirt made of cropped wool, and a brocade apron. The girl was girded with an embroidered towel. Necklaces, ducats, and corals were worn around her neck. Her head was decorated with a lush wedding wreath and colored ribbons.
The groom's attire: a wedding shirt, over which a chumarka was thrown. A woolen belt was wrapped around his waist over wide, variegated trousers, which were tucked into boots. A smuskova hat with a wedding wreath was worn on his head, and a wedding flower with a ribbon was pinned to his chest.
Hutsul region
Young people's clothing. Tykhodolyn district of Transcarpathia (Rakhiv district of Transcarpathia region)
The bride's outfit: a wedding shirt, over which festive zapaski were worn (the colors were rich: cherry, brown, black-green). The zapaski were held by bayoras (braided Volochych cords). On her shoulders, the bride wore a keptar, and over it a serdak (a straight-backed dress), decorated with embroidery and braided cords of yellow and red wool. The neck was decorated with liskavki, patsorki, zgardy, gerdany. The bride's head was decorated with a wedding wreath of 3 forties made of flowers and ribbons. Leather sandals were worn on her feet.
The groom's outfit: a tunic-like embroidered shirt for graduation. The trousers were sewn from homemade, dark cherry-colored rags, tucked into kapchuri (embroidered wool socks) at the bottom. A keptar and serdak were worn over the shirt. The headdress was a dzhumera (a garment made of dark smushy cloth, decorated with tails at the ends and a wreath and magpies in the center.
We hope you enjoyed the article. And if you are planning a Ukrainian-style wedding, pay attention to the wedding dresses in our store. Thank you!
Author of the illustrations: ethnographer Tamar Kusmina.
Write a comment