Recently, Ukrainian vyshyvanka and embroidered items have become more popular than any fashion brand. This trend covers not only our country, but also reaches far beyond its borders. Ukrainian and foreign celebrities, world fashion houses (Valentino, D&G and others) have made their choice in favor of Ukrainian ethnic clothing, and the popularity and relevance of vyshyvanka has been confirmed by the authoritative American fashion magazine Vogue.
In the photo: actress Hayden Panattieri in an embroidered dress with floral patterns
Embroidery in ancient times
Ukrainian embroidery dates back to the Trypillian culture, the late Neolithic era. In the territory of modern Cherkasy region, archaeologists have a find dated to the 6th century AD: an image of men dressed in something very similar to the Ukrainian national costume. Herodotus also claimed that embroidery decorated the clothes of the Scythians, who lived in Ukraine for a long time.
Researchers say that in ancient times, the embroidery process could be called a ritual, which was involved with pure, bright thoughts, putting positive energy into their work. Interestingly, women did not copy other people's patterns, did not sew them from other products or schemes. Their work was individual. The embroiderer, possessing the "language" of ornamental writing, created an absolutely unique thing through colors, lines, and patterns, for a good fate for herself or a loved one. It was believed that sewing someone else's pattern for a shirt meant taking on someone else's fate. The first embroideries in the Slavic countries had a more religious meaning and protected their owners from evil. Children were always given an embroidered shirt at birth and believed that it protected the baby from evil spirits. Up to the age of three, the first embroidered shirt was sewn by the mother. She put all her maternal love and energy into this shirt so that it would protect the baby. The color scheme and features of the embroidery ornament depended on the area, customs, and cultural values.
Embroidery during the time of Kyivan Rus
During the time of Kievan Rus, the art of embroidery with gold and silver threads emerged and flourished. Such embroidery adorned the clothes of feudal nobility and clergy, and was found in the decoration of temples and princely chambers. Ordinary people decorated their shirts with ornaments sewn with red and black threads.
There are references to embroidered clothing in many written sources, primarily in the "Lay of Igor's Campaign", the Ipatiev Chronicle, and other monuments. The Kiev princes strongly supported the tradition of embroidered clothing.
Therefore, it is not surprising that at that time, embroidery was considered one of the most respected professions. The first embroidery school in Kievan Rus was created in the 11th century. It was founded by Anna, the sister of Vladimir Monomakh. At the school, girls mastered the art of embroidering with gold and silver. And even with the wide influence of other peoples on the culture of ancient Rus, embroidery remained practically untouched, preserving traditions and its uniqueness.
Embroidery during the Cossack times
During the heyday of the Ukrainian Cossacks, at the turn of the 16th and 17th centuries, Ukrainian embroidery began to acquire its more or less modern features. The changes affected the embroidery pattern, which was initially more severe - sharp and right angles. The pattern changed depending on the area and each had its own meaning. Interestingly, at that time, embroidery became a kind of characteristic for women: if a young man could not decide which of the girls to start a relationship with, he evaluated the skill of his potential chosen ones. The more skillful the needlewoman was (the pattern on the clothes had to be even, bright, patterned) - the more enviable the bride was considered. After all, at that time, the neat, clean and embroidered clothes of the future husband were the "face" of his wife and the family in general.
An embroidered shirt was also a talisman for the Cossacks who defended their native land from enemies. In a foreign land, the shirt warmed the soul and healed wounds. The Cossacks believed that the patterns embroidered on the cloth had a close connection with their native land, with their home, gave them strength and protected them from the "evil" eye.
It was during the Hetmanate that a holistic Ukrainian national costume was formed, in which embroidery had a special symbolic meaning.
By the way, there is a legend about the special significance of a man's vyshyvanka as a symbol of love. Its meaning is that Chumaks trusted the washing of their shirts to only one girl. Others are not used to such a sacred ritual. This is how a Chumak confirmed his loyalty to his beloved! Washing a shirt by another woman confirmed the fact of betrayal. That is why many Chumak songs contain theses about an "unwashed shirt" about vyshyvanka as a symbol of loyalty.
And there was also a tradition when men had to be sent to war or an epidemic broke out: the women of the settlement would gather together and embroider towels at night. They would embroider in complete silence with prayers. It was practically a meditation, a kind of magical ritual.
19th century embroidery
At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, there was a tendency in cities to separate the embroidered dress from the traditional costume. This primarily concerned the men's embroidered shirt, which began to be worn in combination with European clothing. In rural areas, traditions continued to be followed.
The leading role in starting the fashion of wearing an embroidered shirt under a jacket is often attributed to Ukrainian writer, poet, and publicist Ivan Franko, who wore a jacket over his embroidered shirt. It is in this guise that the writer is depicted on the 20-hryvnia bill.
Embroidery during communism
The communist era cannot be unambiguously characterized in relation to vyshyvanka and folk embroidery. For example, in 1919, the All-Russian Central Executive Committee issued a resolution “On measures to promote handicraft industry.” This, of course, was a positive moment aimed at preserving folk creativity and its multiplication.
But everything depended, so to speak, on the mood of the Central Committee. After a year or two, the party's policy would change radically and a person wearing a vyshyvanka, even though there were no formal prohibitions, would be suspected of excessive nationalism.
In the photo: Nikita Khrushchev in an embroidered shirt
But Khrushchev wore vyshyvanka and Ukrainians could do so without any hassle. In general, wearing vyshyvanka was not forbidden, but it was a kind of violation of the unspoken corporate norms of Soviet culture.
Embroidery during the Independence of Ukraine
With the independence of Ukraine, interest in national creativity has increased many times, and the number of private embroidery schools has also increased. More and more you can see the variety of embroidery at exhibitions, folk fairs, and in stores. It is extremely pleasing that every year Ukrainian traditions are not just being revived, but also becoming an integral part of our lives. And such a beautiful element as embroidery is increasingly in demand in the wardrobe of a modern person. Nowadays, we have a wide selection of embroidered shirts in stores.
An embroidered shirt is no longer a museum exhibit. It is part of a stylish and modern look, from classic to casual. An embroidered shirt can be combined with one or another piece of clothing. In fact, an embroidered shirt is the most versatile outfit. For example, an embroidered shirt looks great with a black pencil skirt. In such an image, you will feel confident in the office or at a business meeting. But for gatherings with friends, you can wear it with cropped jeans or even shorts in the summer. Skinny jeans or fashionable boyfriends, denim shorts and more classic trousers, skirts of various styles - an embroidered shirt will always be relevant and will successfully emphasize your image.
Current trends
And recently, we have a new trend in Ukraine – car embroidery! Motorists love to decorate their vehicles with special stickers. By the way, they are popular not only in Ukraine, but also abroad: sellers say that orders for car embroidery come from Germany, Australia, New Zealand and other countries!
But the #1 trend among Ukrainian youth today is patriotic tattoos! Some consider this an incredibly successful option for such a decision, while others consider it nonsense. Well, everyone has different tastes. However, such a pattern on the body still looks prettier among many tattoo ideas and will definitely not go unnoticed. Here are some interesting transformations of embroidery.
In conclusion, I would like to note that the Ukrainian embroidered shirt has come a long and sometimes difficult way to our days. Our ancestors left us a huge treasure as a legacy. And we are obliged not only not to lose this treasure, but also to multiply it and pass it on to our descendants. Ukrainian embroidery is a symbol of ancestral memory, decency, loyalty and love. And now, it is also a fashionable modern stylish look!
If you want to purchase a modern embroidered shirt for yourself and your family, we suggest you browse the "Embroidery Shirts" section of our online store.
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